What Is the Andre Walker Hair Typing System?
The Andre Walker Hair Typing System is the most widely recognized framework for classifying curl patterns. Created by celebrity hairstylist Andre Walker, it offers a simple way to identify your hair type using numbered categories and lettered subcategories. This system has become a common starting point for understanding textured hair, helping people with wavy, curly, and coily textures find products and care routines that may better suit their texture.
This guide covers what you need to know about the system, how to use it, and its limitations.
The Origin of the Andre Walker Hair Typing System
Andre Walker served as Oprah Winfrey's personal hairstylist from 1985 to 2015 and wrote the 1997 book 'Andre Talks Hair!' He developed the hair typing system in the 1990s to help consumers match hair care products to their specific texture. Since then, it has become the leading hair type classification system.
It uses four numbered types, 1 through 4, representing straight, wavy, curly, and coily hair. Each type is broken into A, B, and C subcategories to indicate the degree of curl or wave within that type. This structure gives people with textured hair a common language to describe their curl pattern and connect with products designed for their needs.
Andre Walker Hair Type Chart

The Andre Walker hair chart organizes hair into 12 distinct categories based on curl pattern and texture. Understanding where your hair falls on this hair typing chart can help you choose styling techniques and products formulated for your specific type.
Type 1 Hair
Straight hair falls into Type 1 on the Andre Walker chart. This hair grows directly from the scalp with no curl or wave, and is often associated with rounder follicles that produce smoother strands. The category is divided into these three subcategories:
- 1A: If your straight hair is ultra-fine with no volume and becomes oily quickly, you likely have 1A. This subtype lies completely flat against the scalp and struggles to hold any styling.
- 1B: Type 1B hair has more body and texture, which distinguishes it from its finer counterpart. It responds better to styling and has individual strands with noticeable thickness.
- 1C: Thick, coarse strands make 1C more resistant to styling changes than finer straight hair types. 1C hair has enough natural body and strength to support styling and maintain some structure throughout the day.
Type 2 Hair
Between straight and curly lies wavy hair, classified as Type 2 hair. Finding the right products for wavy hair means balancing moisture with lightweight definition. Here are the subtypes of this hair type:
- 2A: This wave type features delicate strands with fine texture that form a gentle S-pattern. 2A waves lie close to the head, get oily at the roots quickly, and straighten or curl easily with minimal effort. That's why lightweight enhancement products are often a better fit than heavier ones.
- 2B: The S-pattern becomes more visible and defined in 2B waves, which have a medium texture that resists styling changes.
- 2C: Coarse, thick strands create well-defined S-waves with plenty of volume in 2C hair. People with this wave type often experience resistance to styling and find themselves on the border between 2C and 3A.
While all three form S-patterns, the progression from 2A to 2C moves from fine and flat to thick and voluminous.
Type 3 Hair
Type 3 hair forms distinct spirals and ringlets, ranging from loose corkscrews to tight, bouncy curls. It benefits from moisture-rich products that enhance curl definition and humidity control. The following are Type 3 subtypes:
- 3A: Large, loose spirals define 3A curls, which form patterns about the width of sidewalk chalk. These curls have natural shine and bounce, but lose definition in humid conditions. Maintaining moisture and defining the pattern are essential, which is why products for 3A hair prioritize these.
- 3B: These medium ringlets spiral tighter than 3A, roughly matching a Sharpie marker's circumference. The extra volume and texture in 3B hair respond well to moisture-intensive styling, and products formulated for 3B curls help manage volume while maintaining hydration.
- 3C: About the width of a pencil, 3C curls create tight corkscrews packed with volume and density. Products that deliver intensive moisture and hold are essential for maintaining elasticity and definition.
Tighter spirals often benefit from more targeted moisture and definition support, which is why 3A, 3B, and 3C require different approaches.
Type 4 Hair
Tight coils define Type 4, the hair category with the most shrinkage on the chart. The main distinction among 4A, 4B, and 4C coils lies in how tightly each coil is wound and how much it shrinks.
This texture thrives with moisture, protective styling, and gentle handling to maintain elasticity and prevent breakage. Type 4 hair is divided into:
- 4A: About the size of a crochet needle, 4A coils create visible S-shaped patterns. This curl type retains moisture better than tighter subtypes, making definition-enhancing, hydrating formulas effective at keeping coils soft.
- 4B: Instead of rounded spirals, 4B hair forms Z-shaped coils with sharp angles. Its pattern is less defined than 4A and shrinks significantly. Gentle handling and moisture-focused products can help preserve the health of this texture.
- 4C: These coils often experience significant shrinkage and can be more prone to dryness or breakage without gentle care. 4C hair demands careful handling and products offering intensive moisture and protection to maintain elasticity.
Considerations for the Andre Walker Hair Type System
The Andre Walker Hair Typing System serves as a useful starting point for understanding your curl pattern, but it has limitations, some of which include:
- Density and porosity: The system doesn't account for hair density or porosity, both of which significantly affect product performance.
- Mixed patterns: Most people have more than one hair type across different sections of their head, which the chart doesn't reflect.
- Subjective classification: The system is based on visual observation, meaning two people might classify the same curl pattern differently depending on how they interpret the guidelines.
- Numbered hierarchy: While Andre Walker created it as a practical tool, some feel the numbering implies a ranking rather than simply categorizing different textures.
Shop Bounce Curl Products for Your Hair Type
Now that you understand the Andre Walker Hair Typing System and where your hair falls on the chart, the next step is finding products formulated specifically for your texture. Bounce Curl's product line is designed for wavy, curly, and coily hair, with shopping options that help you browse by hair type, so you can quickly find what works for you.
Bounce Curl products are developed with a science-driven approach rooted in Mesopotamian beauty secrets and guided by a formulating scientist who understands textured hair firsthand. Ready to find products that work for your texture? Browse by hair type or book a free 10-minute consultation for personalized guidance.

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